Things I've learned:
Jambo- Hello
Habari sana- How are you.
Ndiyo- yes
Hapana- no
Hatari- Danger
Twende- Let's go!
Asante- Thank you.
Karibu- (Your) Welcome
Kwa heri- Good bye
A couple tricks I have learned from my travels, if you don't know the language you really only need to know greetings and thank you, our atrocious language skills shall be easily pardoned by a smile and by being American. Other countries already perceive Americans to be arrogant and incompetent, and there is really nothing we can do about it. This reputation has taken years to develop and pretending to know a language will do nothing for you. You might as well relish the moment and as my mother would say, "play dumb." That way the native will most likely be more inclined to help the "dumb American."
Prior to my trip to France this summer I had heard the most ghastly rumors of the French (specifically Parisian) hospitality. I have absolutely no knowledge of the French language, and this really wasn't an issue for me. For one, the rest of the world speaks English rather well. They begin intensive English courses in primary school, and continue their education into high school and college. And second, I can't recall a time in my month long travel where I had a savage encountered.
After a successful month in Europe I decided to try these tricks in Kenya. Success. Some people are better at this game than others. Example, Police officers in Kenya are a bit corrupt. You can basically pay to get out of anything, one offense, being white. If you are a white person(/group) in a car you are more than likely to get pulled over and they will find some reason to fine you. Our last day in Nairobi, a traffic cop decided to approach the car when we were at a stop light. JJ asked David (our drive) if he should talk to him, "yes, do not ignore him." As the stern police officer began to approach the car JJ rolled down the window.
JJ- "Jambo!"
Officer- "Jambo." (maintains stern face)
JJ- "Habari sana?"
Officer- "Asante. Jina lako ni nani?" (still looking quite angry)
JJ- He begins to laugh, "Uhh I don't know that one."
Officer- breaks into laughter and waves us through the traffic.
We all begin to laugh because no one saw that coming. David is laughing hysterically, we ask him what the officer said. "He asked what his name was."
Our last days in Kenya were spent in Nairobi shopping for last minute presents and eating well. We had been eating so healthy in Kasigua and Mombassa the only thing to do was indulge. First stop, we all got milkshakes, for dinner, Italian carbo loading (Osteria, one of the best ITalian restaurants I have ever been to), and after dinner we ran to the ice cream shop next door. No shame.
And twenty-two hours of flying I finally made it back to sunny Southern California.
Thursday, August 18, 2011
Thursday, August 11, 2011
Tide Pooling
Rasta, our guide from the Star Fish Island talked us into another mini trip, a dive trip in the local tide pools. Thursday was our last day in Mombasa, so what better day to go on a little excursion. Rasta and Ali met us in front of the house and we set out on the little grass path.
Clad in my bikini and havaianas I followed the pack into the tide pools. We had watched the tides drift in and out all week but I was not aware of how vast and far the tide pools ran, ecosystems emerged all along the coastline. For miles the little shallow beds unveiled the homes of little creatures previously submerged by the rocky waves. As we approached the tide pools Rasta flashed a toothless grin, indicating that we were close. At the water's edge he points to a watery pathway, we had arrived at Monkey Bridge. He warned us to stay on the trail, we obeyed for fear of another altercation with the sea urchins.
Ragged coastlines to the west, a dark blue expanse to east, stormy clouds approaching in the distance from the south. Our path only illuminated by the unsettled sand from Rasta's footsteps. After what felt like an eternity of traversing this watery jungle we made it to our first stop, the "Africa Pool." The first pool resembled the continent of Africa, with a small imprint of madagascar right next to it. The scene from our first pool resembled that of a "Pirates of the Caribbean" set. The pool was filled with kelp forests, sea urchins, tiger fish and lion fish. We explored our new underwater playground for about half an hour then decided to make our way towards our second location.
The next tide pool was a different experience, cave dives filled with bats! This was my first time seeing bats up close so I was really excited. As we dove into the pool we glided into the small cliffside caves. This little ravine looked like a scene from Indiana Jones. As we dove farther into the cave the light began to fade and we could hear little chirps above us. I looked up to see hundreds of bats buzzing above my head. If you have never seen a bat before know this, they are not cute, but they are a spectacular specimen. Little beady eyes, gnarled pig-like faces mesh into a little flying skeleton. We gawked at the fury creatures for a couple more minutes then made our way out of the pools. The tides were rising quickly and it was time for us to go. Rasta escorted me to our little escape route because I had already tumbled on this slippery waterway. We got back to the cottage just as it began to rain. The remainder of our day was spent lounging around the cottage waiting out the rain.
Wednesday, August 10, 2011
Liquid Language
Generally the beginning of August is dedicated to a week in Hawaii with my family tanning, surfing, swimming, eating and of course watching Shark Week. Although I was deprived of my usual fishy entertainment, my family was very good about keeping me up to date with the new season. They were also kind enough to inform me about the creatures lurking outside my cottage!
When I wake up in the morning and in the late afternoon I like to go for a swim. The tide is pretty high, the current isn't too strong and most of the other tourists have vacated the waters. However, from my years of shark week I am well aware of how dangerous the waters are (and my family is all too kind to daily remind me), during a time when I want to be relaxing enjoying a casual ocean swim images from shark week drift through my head and play games with my imagination. From my general shark encyclopedia I know that my area is relatively safe, the most harmless creature in these waters is the sea urchin (which attacked JJ's hand yesterday...). But tomorrow we are heading into the caves for a little snorkeling, hopefully we see something a bit, more, ferocious?
On a side notes, did you know that Mombasa is home to the world's second largest barrier reef and home to a large community of whale sharks. Good thing I got my scuba certification this summer! Too bad the Indian Ocean is also swimming with Tiger and Bull Sharks. If I had more time in Mombasa, it was the appropriate season and I had a diving partner I would seriously consider a dive trip out here. The African coast is a great place to vacation and the water is lovely, looks like I might have to venture out here again.
When I wake up in the morning and in the late afternoon I like to go for a swim. The tide is pretty high, the current isn't too strong and most of the other tourists have vacated the waters. However, from my years of shark week I am well aware of how dangerous the waters are (and my family is all too kind to daily remind me), during a time when I want to be relaxing enjoying a casual ocean swim images from shark week drift through my head and play games with my imagination. From my general shark encyclopedia I know that my area is relatively safe, the most harmless creature in these waters is the sea urchin (which attacked JJ's hand yesterday...). But tomorrow we are heading into the caves for a little snorkeling, hopefully we see something a bit, more, ferocious?
On a side notes, did you know that Mombasa is home to the world's second largest barrier reef and home to a large community of whale sharks. Good thing I got my scuba certification this summer! Too bad the Indian Ocean is also swimming with Tiger and Bull Sharks. If I had more time in Mombasa, it was the appropriate season and I had a diving partner I would seriously consider a dive trip out here. The African coast is a great place to vacation and the water is lovely, looks like I might have to venture out here again.
Monday, August 8, 2011
Twende!
Things I am thankful for: malaria medicine.
(The first month of my trip we have experienced a couple run ins with mosquitos but nothing compares to the Mumbasa coastline.)
We have nestled into a little beach cottage community just outside of Mumbasa, Sand Island. The quaint cottage is a nice change from the Banda for two reasons: 1) electricity and 2) running water. We had arrived so late the night before that I did not have time to explore our new home. I awoke to an early morning wake up call from cackling chickens, as I slipped outside of my mosquito net made my way to the back door. Before I open the door the sound of the waves and the smell of fresh ocean air pull me outside. I have finally made it back to the beach. As I walk out towards the water something catches my eye on the patio in the little foot bath. A baby sea turtle scuttles around trying to find a way to escape. The turtle is about the size of my palm, and looks like a small McDonald's toy. It had gotten lost the night before in its attempt to make it to the ocean. We scooped him up and released him in the ocean. Perk of living on the beach.
Another perk, having fresh produce brought to your doorstep. Living here is like having your own personal farmer's market. We have our pick of fresh fish and prawns, then we move on to the fresh fruit, then baked goods. Around noon our chef, Ali, arrives to prepare us dinner. I spend the day tanning on the beach and sneaking into the kitchen to watch Ali prepare dinner. He is shy and my presence confuses him so my attempts to learn African cooking quickly cease. I retreat to the beach for a swim. JJ and I swim over the reef to a small sand island and lay out for awhile. Eat, tan, nap, swim. The rest of the day continues in this pattern. And we drift to sleep listening to the ocean waves.
The next day I wake up to new mosquito bites, how could this be? I slept in a mosquito net, with bug spray and a bug repellent bracelet (so thankful for my Asian genes...). I run to my bag for the Benadryl, some delightful pest bit my eyelid and now the left side of my face is swollen, thank goodness no one else is awake to see this. Everyone slowly makes there way to the kitchen and we all surprisingly were attacked last night. High quality mosquito nets...oh well.
After breakfast a woman comes to give the girls a henna tattoo. After receiving the tattoo we all admire our new body art, then realize that 1) we can't go swimming for a couple of hours and 2) she used hair dye to paint us...details to come on how that works out. The paint dries we head to the beach to tan. After a couple of hours JJ wakes me up, we are going on a Star Fish excursion. I run to the cottage and grab my camera and we head to the canoe, all eight of us. As each person gets in the canoe gets lower and lower, the driver laughs and tells us the boat typically holds five but its ok? This is very reassuring.
After a rocky ride we arrive at a little sand dune in the middle of the ocean. We make our way out to the middle of the dune, as we get closer I begin to see colorful stars sprinkled across the sand. First Asian instinct, pull the camera out. We play on star fish island for about an hour, making mermaid tops, stacking them, covering ourselves with them, basically using them as living legos. As the sun goes down our stomaches begin tot rumble. Instantly we think of the fresh fish waiting for us at home. We pile into the boat and make our way back to the cottage, we are greeted by Ali, bon appetite.
(The first month of my trip we have experienced a couple run ins with mosquitos but nothing compares to the Mumbasa coastline.)
We have nestled into a little beach cottage community just outside of Mumbasa, Sand Island. The quaint cottage is a nice change from the Banda for two reasons: 1) electricity and 2) running water. We had arrived so late the night before that I did not have time to explore our new home. I awoke to an early morning wake up call from cackling chickens, as I slipped outside of my mosquito net made my way to the back door. Before I open the door the sound of the waves and the smell of fresh ocean air pull me outside. I have finally made it back to the beach. As I walk out towards the water something catches my eye on the patio in the little foot bath. A baby sea turtle scuttles around trying to find a way to escape. The turtle is about the size of my palm, and looks like a small McDonald's toy. It had gotten lost the night before in its attempt to make it to the ocean. We scooped him up and released him in the ocean. Perk of living on the beach.
Another perk, having fresh produce brought to your doorstep. Living here is like having your own personal farmer's market. We have our pick of fresh fish and prawns, then we move on to the fresh fruit, then baked goods. Around noon our chef, Ali, arrives to prepare us dinner. I spend the day tanning on the beach and sneaking into the kitchen to watch Ali prepare dinner. He is shy and my presence confuses him so my attempts to learn African cooking quickly cease. I retreat to the beach for a swim. JJ and I swim over the reef to a small sand island and lay out for awhile. Eat, tan, nap, swim. The rest of the day continues in this pattern. And we drift to sleep listening to the ocean waves.
The next day I wake up to new mosquito bites, how could this be? I slept in a mosquito net, with bug spray and a bug repellent bracelet (so thankful for my Asian genes...). I run to my bag for the Benadryl, some delightful pest bit my eyelid and now the left side of my face is swollen, thank goodness no one else is awake to see this. Everyone slowly makes there way to the kitchen and we all surprisingly were attacked last night. High quality mosquito nets...oh well.
After breakfast a woman comes to give the girls a henna tattoo. After receiving the tattoo we all admire our new body art, then realize that 1) we can't go swimming for a couple of hours and 2) she used hair dye to paint us...details to come on how that works out. The paint dries we head to the beach to tan. After a couple of hours JJ wakes me up, we are going on a Star Fish excursion. I run to the cottage and grab my camera and we head to the canoe, all eight of us. As each person gets in the canoe gets lower and lower, the driver laughs and tells us the boat typically holds five but its ok? This is very reassuring.
After a rocky ride we arrive at a little sand dune in the middle of the ocean. We make our way out to the middle of the dune, as we get closer I begin to see colorful stars sprinkled across the sand. First Asian instinct, pull the camera out. We play on star fish island for about an hour, making mermaid tops, stacking them, covering ourselves with them, basically using them as living legos. As the sun goes down our stomaches begin tot rumble. Instantly we think of the fresh fish waiting for us at home. We pile into the boat and make our way back to the cottage, we are greeted by Ali, bon appetite.
Sunday, August 7, 2011
Postage
Now that we have completed our teaching program...
Sunday: Demarathoning
Slept in until 9. After a month of early wake up calls and busy schedules a day of rest was much needed (especially after a half marathon). Some of my favorite days are lazy days spent lounging around the house in my pajamas, and today was no different. We took our coffee and breakfast on the patio to enjoy a late brunch. Later we walked down to the library to meet our guide for a little hike. We were going to the skull caves (caves filled with human skulls of buried village ancestors). Anyone that has met me knows that I am hyper-ligamentous (my surgeon's term for clumsy), thus far I have managed to not maim myself, but I guess today was my dat. I somehow managed to launch myself into a thorn bush, impaling a branch into my leg, immediate bruising and bleeding occurred, awesome. I suppose its not a successful trip until I receive a battle wound. Luckily I wasn't the only person to leave with a souvenir from the hike, Bob managed to walk away with a nice little head wound. And as always we had a late start, this paired with out of shape people, random battle wounds, extreme heat, African terrain and the setting sun was not the ideal setting for a hike. We were about a quarter way through the hike when we realized this. We settled for the cave with one skull low on the mountain, unfortunately this scene was not as exciting as we had anticipated. After a sneak peak we resigned to the Banda.
Monday: Stigmatized
Today we hosted a community HIV/AIDS tutorial at the Bungule library. It was an open house, the community was welcomed to join us for donuts and a video from 10-4. One person came. The young man informed us that in this society a person's attendance at such a gathering could be misinterpreted as them having the illness. The stigma associated with this disease has created such a negative vortex (and rightfully so), that something as simple as an informational meeting can be misread. This was irritating but understandable. After he left we decided to call it a day, back to the Banda.
Tuesday: Lounging
Wednesday: Lounging
Thursday: Mount Kasigua
Seeing as our first hike was so successful we decided to try another. We retired the idea of the skull caves, the narrow trail and angry baboons were enough to detour us from further exploration. This time we were going to try Mount Kasigua, we were told it could be anywhere from a 4-6 hour hike. This was a bit frightening being that my hiking experience is basically nonexistent (Two Trees is my paramount excursion). This trek was led by three locals welding machetes, these were used to clear a path an whack unwanted intruders (snakes). About half way up we lost a couple of boys, hiking is not everyone's cup of tea, they decided to head back down to the van and retreat to the Banda for a couple of Tuskers and cigars. The girls continued on. This hike was definitely an experience, we traversed through so many microclimates. We began in the hot savanna, made our way into the bush, then onto a forest, then into the rain forest and out at the top of the mountain. The rain forest was magical to say the least, think Fern Gully. An eerie mist rests just above the trees, sun light peaking through and fragmenting off the fog illuminating our path. The ground springs back after you step on it because of the moss. You can hear the wind whistling through the trees, little drops trickling of the brush, a constant mist swaying overhead. When we finally made it to the top it was like we were sitting on top of the clouds. We found a flat peaking out of the mist, and there we enjoyed lunch as we gazed down our conquered mountain.
Friday: Demos and things
After a day of hiking we decided to give ourselves another day off. We slept in most of the day then made our way down to town to say our farewells to our friends.
Saturday: Buh byeee
Caution: When running beware (be aware) of poisonous snakes and rampaging elephants.
Before a long da of travel I like to go for a run in the mornings to get my wiggles out, and today was no different. Today we were FINALLY making the trip to Mumbasa to head down to Sand Island. But before the trek we decided to go for a little morning run, as we headed down the trail we maintained our usual running routine. Megan in the front pacing us and Alex and I trying to keep up. About 20 minutes into our run we noticed that an elephant had decided to take our running path the night before. We were a little hesitant (African elephants are not friendly...they will try to run you over) but it had probably passed hours before so we had nothing to fear? False. It had just passed through we decided to avoid a collision with the ele and took another path. I haven't seen the beach in a month, the withdraws were beginning to take a toll on me! Nothing was stopping me from laying in the sand next to fields of starfish and crystal clear waters.
Sunday: Demarathoning
Slept in until 9. After a month of early wake up calls and busy schedules a day of rest was much needed (especially after a half marathon). Some of my favorite days are lazy days spent lounging around the house in my pajamas, and today was no different. We took our coffee and breakfast on the patio to enjoy a late brunch. Later we walked down to the library to meet our guide for a little hike. We were going to the skull caves (caves filled with human skulls of buried village ancestors). Anyone that has met me knows that I am hyper-ligamentous (my surgeon's term for clumsy), thus far I have managed to not maim myself, but I guess today was my dat. I somehow managed to launch myself into a thorn bush, impaling a branch into my leg, immediate bruising and bleeding occurred, awesome. I suppose its not a successful trip until I receive a battle wound. Luckily I wasn't the only person to leave with a souvenir from the hike, Bob managed to walk away with a nice little head wound. And as always we had a late start, this paired with out of shape people, random battle wounds, extreme heat, African terrain and the setting sun was not the ideal setting for a hike. We were about a quarter way through the hike when we realized this. We settled for the cave with one skull low on the mountain, unfortunately this scene was not as exciting as we had anticipated. After a sneak peak we resigned to the Banda.
Monday: Stigmatized
Today we hosted a community HIV/AIDS tutorial at the Bungule library. It was an open house, the community was welcomed to join us for donuts and a video from 10-4. One person came. The young man informed us that in this society a person's attendance at such a gathering could be misinterpreted as them having the illness. The stigma associated with this disease has created such a negative vortex (and rightfully so), that something as simple as an informational meeting can be misread. This was irritating but understandable. After he left we decided to call it a day, back to the Banda.
Tuesday: Lounging
Wednesday: Lounging
Thursday: Mount Kasigua
Seeing as our first hike was so successful we decided to try another. We retired the idea of the skull caves, the narrow trail and angry baboons were enough to detour us from further exploration. This time we were going to try Mount Kasigua, we were told it could be anywhere from a 4-6 hour hike. This was a bit frightening being that my hiking experience is basically nonexistent (Two Trees is my paramount excursion). This trek was led by three locals welding machetes, these were used to clear a path an whack unwanted intruders (snakes). About half way up we lost a couple of boys, hiking is not everyone's cup of tea, they decided to head back down to the van and retreat to the Banda for a couple of Tuskers and cigars. The girls continued on. This hike was definitely an experience, we traversed through so many microclimates. We began in the hot savanna, made our way into the bush, then onto a forest, then into the rain forest and out at the top of the mountain. The rain forest was magical to say the least, think Fern Gully. An eerie mist rests just above the trees, sun light peaking through and fragmenting off the fog illuminating our path. The ground springs back after you step on it because of the moss. You can hear the wind whistling through the trees, little drops trickling of the brush, a constant mist swaying overhead. When we finally made it to the top it was like we were sitting on top of the clouds. We found a flat peaking out of the mist, and there we enjoyed lunch as we gazed down our conquered mountain.
Friday: Demos and things
After a day of hiking we decided to give ourselves another day off. We slept in most of the day then made our way down to town to say our farewells to our friends.
Saturday: Buh byeee
Caution: When running beware (be aware) of poisonous snakes and rampaging elephants.
Before a long da of travel I like to go for a run in the mornings to get my wiggles out, and today was no different. Today we were FINALLY making the trip to Mumbasa to head down to Sand Island. But before the trek we decided to go for a little morning run, as we headed down the trail we maintained our usual running routine. Megan in the front pacing us and Alex and I trying to keep up. About 20 minutes into our run we noticed that an elephant had decided to take our running path the night before. We were a little hesitant (African elephants are not friendly...they will try to run you over) but it had probably passed hours before so we had nothing to fear? False. It had just passed through we decided to avoid a collision with the ele and took another path. I haven't seen the beach in a month, the withdraws were beginning to take a toll on me! Nothing was stopping me from laying in the sand next to fields of starfish and crystal clear waters.
Tuesday, August 2, 2011
Rehabbin
Whenever anyone asks you how you are enjoying your stay (in their hometown/home) the common and courteous response is something generic with a hint of description and most importantly it must sound genuine. This past week I have been repetitively asked by Kenyans and my group how I am enjoying my stay and if I will return. To the first question I kindly reply that I am enjoying my Kenyan holiday. What is not to enjoy? My trip is like rehab (without the withdraws), it's a much needed break from the urban decay. Whenever I travel I enjoy my time away from the "everyday necessities" that consume my daily routines: cell, Facebook, Starbucks.
I am currently living in a bonda overlooking the African savanna. My morning routine consists of waking up every morning to a pipping hot cup of coffee, espresso, or tea (you cannot sacrifice everything). I pour myself a cup of coffee and I sit down for a morning read (current rate= 1 book a week). After coffee we get our butts kicked by our trainer "Jillian Michaels." And as our workout ends we are called to breakfast which we enjoy outside on the patio. After breakfast we generally have a full day, whether it be teaching, village meetings or trips into the city we are usually running around until 6 or later. As we get home we are welcomed by the intoxicating smell of homemade popcorn wafting out from the house (Did I mention that we have a cook/housekeeper). As we sit and decompress after a long day we sit around the popcorn bowl reading our books or doing a crossword puzzle. About an hour later we gather around the table of a healthy home cooked meal. After dinner we each get ready for bed and read a little more. Our bedtime gets earlier and earlier, and as boring as this sounds it is so refreshing. My time in Africa consists of resting, good eating, working out and reading...the perfect detox. So to answer the first question yes. I am loving my time here. I am traveling in Africa with one of my good friends, I've also made new friends and I am meeting wonderful people.
Now for the second question. When will I return. This is an awkward question to respond to point blank. As much as I am enjoying my time in Kasigua I do not know when or if I shall return. Africa is an amazing continent and has so much to offer and I would very much like to explore more countries but it is very difficult to gauge when I shall make it back out here especially when I still have two more weeks out here. For now I can only smile and only answer the first question.
I am currently living in a bonda overlooking the African savanna. My morning routine consists of waking up every morning to a pipping hot cup of coffee, espresso, or tea (you cannot sacrifice everything). I pour myself a cup of coffee and I sit down for a morning read (current rate= 1 book a week). After coffee we get our butts kicked by our trainer "Jillian Michaels." And as our workout ends we are called to breakfast which we enjoy outside on the patio. After breakfast we generally have a full day, whether it be teaching, village meetings or trips into the city we are usually running around until 6 or later. As we get home we are welcomed by the intoxicating smell of homemade popcorn wafting out from the house (Did I mention that we have a cook/housekeeper). As we sit and decompress after a long day we sit around the popcorn bowl reading our books or doing a crossword puzzle. About an hour later we gather around the table of a healthy home cooked meal. After dinner we each get ready for bed and read a little more. Our bedtime gets earlier and earlier, and as boring as this sounds it is so refreshing. My time in Africa consists of resting, good eating, working out and reading...the perfect detox. So to answer the first question yes. I am loving my time here. I am traveling in Africa with one of my good friends, I've also made new friends and I am meeting wonderful people.
Now for the second question. When will I return. This is an awkward question to respond to point blank. As much as I am enjoying my time in Kasigua I do not know when or if I shall return. Africa is an amazing continent and has so much to offer and I would very much like to explore more countries but it is very difficult to gauge when I shall make it back out here especially when I still have two more weeks out here. For now I can only smile and only answer the first question.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)