Day Trippin

Well as the saying goes, "you win some, you lose some?" Such was today's feeling as we made our way to Toledo. The tone of the day was set with the dreary Madrid weather, ominous clouds filled the sky, scattering showers throughout the city. The foreboding weather, a late start and a language barrier dictated our travel choice. All morning we had been torn between Toledo, a medieval town 30 minutes from Madrid, or Valencia, a modern and artsy beachy town. It wasn't as if one was better than the other, both came highly recommended...its just that we had just been leaning towards Valencia.

Our first warning sign of the day, our first gypsy sighting at the train station. This clever gypsy, unlike Italian or French gypsies, she well was camouflaged into the crowd...or at least to us. She appeared out of thin air, as most gypsies do, dressed in a trendy fur vest and trendy Euro hat. Cub was her first victim, we had left her behind at a table as Sue and I stood in line ordering our cappuccinos. The sneaky gypsy crept up to the table, Cub seeing her true intentions quickly scrambled for our scattered belongings, denying the gypsy's request for, "moneda." After slinking through the tables she came upon the line of weary caffeine seeks. One after the other people turned the gypsy away...and she made her way toward the "naive Americans." As I stood innocently collecting my beverage the gypsy slowly crept from behind (I was an easy target to spot in my Patagonia...clearly from California). Just as she was about to pounce, Sue comes out of nowhere with a firm, "no...(and other inaudible Spanglish)!" The gypsy was thrown, she immediately retreated to prey on other weary travelers.

Anyways...after the incident we hopped on our bullet train. These impressive locomotives make traveling too easy, from day trips between London and Paris to traversing the entire country of Japan, trains are a fabulous way to see a countryside without actually having to see the countryside. Traveling at 120 kph we are in Toledo in 30 minutes...sweet. However, with such an abrupt thrust into our Toledo day trip we hadn't planned an itinerary (I like a prepared itinerary so I'm not wandering in circles all day). As we exit the train, advertisements for different tours litter the lobby. Which one do we pick? The one that offers the red double decker bus, tickets to the main sights and a guided tour. It seems as if a majority of our train compañeros were making their way to the bus, so it seems only appropriate we do too. We hopped onto the bus and scored some rooftop seats (don't worry it was only lightly misting and really windy but at least we had raincoats...conditions were basically perfect).

The beautiful city is nestled into the Spanish countryside, in the hill country and secured in a medieval fortress. It was the capital of Spain under the Romans and in the 8th century the Moors settled in leaving behind an eclectic legacy and culture. The tour bus circled the exterior of the city allowing for an impressive view of the stronghold while occasionally pausing along the road to allow for Kodak moments and brief history blurbs. We crossed the Rio Tajo and entered the city through a bridge on the south side of the city; it is a surreal moment as you enter the town. Almost as though you are entering a time warp, you half expect to see a horse drawn carriage and knights prancing around...then you see McDonald's. Ok Spain. We are let out at a plaza to look around...then the bus leaves. Yeah...it left...and not just us, everyone. We were handed a map and sent on our way. So basically we paid for an overpriced city bus..."well at least it's not raining." Cue the rain...(I wish I made that up). W quickly scamper into the nearest (cutest) boutique. I guess we'll hang in here for a bit.

The rain seemed to disappear as quickly as it arrived. We take to the streets in search of a lunch stop. All our friends and the travel books warned us that the winding streets and steep hills were exasperating...and to expect to get lost. And so was the rest of the day. Traveling seemingly deserted alleyways and discovering hidden shops and restaurants until we found one we liked. After a long lunch we resurfaced into the city to see the other attractions. We stumbled into the Catedral to find the back entrance coved in gypsies. We decided to seek out anther entrance. As we hand the man our tickets he informs us that they are not real. Dejectedly we venture into the office to procure legitimate tickets only to discover that it was 6 and the Catedral closes at 6:30 so we can't buy the tour headset...awesome. We then enter one of the most beautiful Catedrals I have ever seen (the Spanish Catholics really know how to design a church). The interior design of the church reflects that of a traditional gothic style, however because of the Moor presence in the region it allows for a wonderful collision of cultures and influences that make it completely unique unto itself.

After we exit the Catedral we have come to a conclusion we are pretty over Toledo. Hopefully, one day, we can dedicate the time and patience to this medieval wonder, but for now we need to get outta here. We jump on a train for Madrid...40 minutes later find ourselves in the hotel lobby. Trying to salvage what is left of the day we head to the concierge to discuss possible ideas for the night.

We determine that our best course of action is: attend a Flamenco show. We scuttle across town and are dropped off in another deserted alleyway, where we find a hidden door with a sign that directs us to our destination. The host guides us through the tiny restaurant towards our table. We missed dinner but we didn't mind. Soon the lights dimmed and the performers took the stage. For the next two hours we are dazzled by the singers, the Spanish guitarists and the dancers. Flamenco is a beautiful dance to which the dancers last create their own music and rhythm with their fancy footwork. Everyone is captivated by the mesmerizing display before us (the particular show is featured in the book "1,000 Things to do Before You Die"). After a long day, it is almost as if our day has been redeemed...gracias Madrid.

Basqueing In The Sun

After two years Cub (my sister/faithful travel companion) and I have finally made our way back into Basque Country. And let me tell you, Basque life is the good life. Our past travels found us in this magical land for our friend Lakey's surf contest. What we thought was a casual weekend excursion to the South of France was so much more. This little stretch of land is nestled in between Southern France and Northern Spain, and has a unique culture that doesn't quite reflect that of the French or Spanish. And that is exactly how they prefer it (the Basque citizens are the original Euro settlers and their language predates that of the Romantic languages). Picturesque coastal cityscapes atop lofty cliff sides. Each tiny town is a patchwork of cobblestone alleyways, elegant boutiques, quaint cafés, and beautiful people.

San Sebastián is a major tourist destination, for Europeans. Unlike most other European countries, English is a necessity for tourism...but Spain and France only care for their own language...thus far Cub and I have been able to brush up on our Spanish skills (my mom has developed her own type of Spanglish which only she can comprehend). But in the land of the Basque they have a unique vernacular that we can't seem to grasp. Damn, we'll have to find another way to fit in with the locals...Cub and I have come up with two solutions to our problem: steal a dog or find a strapping young man with a moped. We settled for renting bikes.

The tiny city boasts a rolling promenade that connects the three beaches, to Old Town, and to the City Center. The city is a marvel, San Sebastián, or as the locals know it Donostia, has a trendy, beachy vibe which is quite the juxtaposition to the elegant Victorian architecture. I love tiny cities where I am able to find my bearings after a day yet it still contains enough hidden treasures to keep me captivated. Although the weather was a little temperate (the climate is effected by the Pyrenees Mountains) it was still a perfect holiday . We had three days in the city, and didn't have a moment to lose. We threw our bags in our room and headed down to Old Town for a little afternoon shopping and aperitivos. To our dismay EVERYTHING was closed expect for one street filled with the little taperías. One of the many reasons I am obsessed with España is because of the importance they place on their siestas (it's genius really). Now, Barcelona kind of does siestas...but San Sebastián really does siestas. During these hours the town closes its doors heads to the bars and enjoys the weekend.

"No pasa nada," is the Spanish way of life and it is what makes this culture so rich and carefree. And because we're all about being local we decide to partake. Tapas bars in Basque languages are a bit intimidating so we head into a creperie. You can't go wrong with a place that serves desserts and cappuccinos (basic necessities of course). After a hearty lunch we head back to the hotel for our own siesta. But being such a beautiful day, Shelb and I couldn't possibly stay in for long. We throw on some warmer clothes grab our bikes and explore the city...again. But this time everything was open. It was as if a new life had been breathed into the city. We rolled up and down the coast stopping every five feet to capture a little piece of the view to take home with us.

Upon our return we quickly threw on some fancy threads, for we had dinner in 30 minutes at Botafumeiro, a quaint, little, Michelin star, restaurant located in the oldest farm house in the area. A little eery being the only guests in the restaurant but we foolishly made reservations at 9, the place began to liven up around 10! If you ever find yourself in San Sebastián (which if you have Euro plans in your future get to España it's...the best) you can't miss this rustic experience. If you're into old school elegance and waiters catering to your every move then Botafumeiro is definitely your style. You have a handful of waiters that have been assigned to shadow your every move, anticipating your every desire and need. And that's just the service, the food is an unearthly concoction of old world Basque delicacies that melt in your mouth. If a restaurant can prepare a fois gras tasty enough for me to consider seconds I think they can satisfy any insatiable palate.

The next two days were filled with long bike rides, beach naps, tea parties and boutique shopping. Farewell Basque Country, hasta luego. Besos.

No Pasa Nada

As my time in Barcelona comes to a close as cliche as it sounds...I am overcome with grief. The longer I stay in Barca the more in love I fall. Alas, as all good things must come to an end, we are off to San Sebastian in the morning. But now...a look back on our time in this wonderful city.

I believe that when possible, bike tours are the perfect way to see a city. What better way to acquaint oneself with a new place than taking to the streets! I had previously used Fat Tire tours a couple summers ago in Paris and remembered that they had a Barcelona tour. The idea didn't take much coaxing because it was a beautiful day and who wants to go to the gym when you have a better alternative. I can't speak more highly of the company...you travel around the city pausing at major landmarks for a brief history blurb but you don't feel bombarded by boring, irrelevant facts. The guides are young travelers (in Paris we had a UCSB water polo bro from norcal...in Barca we had an Aussi gypsy on a long holiday) that fell in love with the city and want to share it with fellow bikers? We met our group a la Plaza Sant Jaume, then we walked over to the shop grabbed some beach cruisers and made our way along the windy cobblestone roads to Plaza del Rei. After our lesson in the the the gorgeous plaza my mother decided it was the most opportune moment to take a couple tourist snapshots. But for the technologically inadvanced...one quick shot turned into accidental selfies which resulted in that "awkward moment" when you lose your tour group in a crowded city to which you can barely navigate yourself.

The company is pretty lax and there really is only one rule (besides "have fun") if you get lost stay in the same place and the guide will come back to find you. Well we sort of stayed in the same place...but Sue needed to check out the little zapatarias and Shelb was parched. So...as I see the our guide on the other side of the busy plaza I attempt to gather the attention of my travel companions while swimming through a sea of tourists and lose the guide...again. Well 30 minutes later we're still at the plaza and decide maybe we should try to make our way back to the shop...we find a note on the door, "lost people I will find you." How reassuring. After a couple minutes of waiting, another guide finds us and takes us to find our group. Well we have missed La Catedral but we meet them a la Arc de Triomf, yep Spain has one too...and I know this is a bold statement but it is more beautiful than the one in Paris (just keepin it real...). We then make our way to La Parc de la Ciutadella to see Gaudi's Fountain...which is nothing like his other works in the city but that is because he was the apprentice but in Barcelona Gaudi is God and it's his. We then make our way to the Barcelona Plaza del Toros (the infamous bullfighting ring). Now I don't know about you but there are a couple of things I think of when I make my to do list for Spain and bullfighting was pretty up there...but when you hear about the gruesome nature of the sport (grant it there was a definite bias by the storyteller...) but it is safe to say that it is no longer on my list. After a horrifying revelation of present day bullfighting we made our way to La Sagrada Familia which truly is a masterpiece, and even though we had toured it the day before it was definitely worth a second go around. We then head to the beach where we gazed over Port Olimpic and enjoyed a late lunch on the beach. What is most interesting about Barcelona is that it didn't become a major tourist destination until the 90's when they hosted the Olympics...which is crazy because this city has SO much to offer (if you can't tell already I am completely infatuated). After lunch and losing the group "only" two more times we made it back to the bike shop feeling wonderfully content. It was the perfect way to see the city, once again completely impressed with Fat Tire Tours. We were able to explore a beautiful city, made new friends from around the world and had a great history lesson filled with interesting facts that you don't normally receive on a tour. Bravo Fat Tire.

Well the only appropriate thing to do after a 4 hour, 7 mile tour is shopping and an afternoon cappuccino/pie/instagram break. Around 6 we headed back to the hotel for a little siesta (I could really get used to this...honestly who doesn't love a nap and a late dinner...I need to move to Europe). We woke up around 8:45, called the concierge for a good paella restaurant and headed out to the famous Botafumeiro...divine. If you're in town go...after dinner we set Sue on her merry way and headed out into the famous Barcelona nightlife. The only advice we got from our friends was "head to the beach" so we did. What looks like little lean-tos along the beach front were actually massive underground disco techs with many dance floors. Heading down the secret staircase at midnight we knew it would be empty...its Spain we get it no one goes out until 2...what we did not expect to find was a toga party, as Asher Roth famously professed, "I Love College." We danced the night away jumping from discoteca to discoteca...what a night.

Our last day in Spain was spent at the Museo Picasso, tracking down leather boutiques, and chasing the sunset. Tomorrow we leave for San Sebastian, back to the Basque country.

Don't worry Barca I will be back...soon.  

Barca Bound

Generally the most stressful part of a trip is the traveling. Rushing to gates, the colossal customs lines, sitting in cramped quarters for extended periods of time and the ever formidable collecting of luggage. Lucky for us, we managed to make it unscathed (for the most part) from Los Angeles to Barcelona. And now, after a grueling 15 hours of traveling we find ourselves in the beautiful Barcelonian twilight. The stunning architecture is unparalleled to any city I have traveled. The cities iconic spirit and architecture can be attributed to the genius of Antoni Gaudí. The rich nightlife is accented by scattered light and roaming Europeans...minutes in the city and we have fallen. As we make our way to the hotel waves of exhaustion begin to set in as we stumble into our room and onto our beds.

Fact: I can fall asleep anywhere and anytime, my faithful travel companions (mom and Shelb) are another story. You know that horrible, and I mean painfully painstaking feeling when you are awaked from a deep slumber prematurely? Well around 2:30 am I am forcefully jerked from mine. My mom and sister have not acclimated to our new time zone and have decided that now (when technically we should be going out flamenco dancing) it is the most appropriate time to FaceTime with my dad. Grant it who doesn't love a good FaceTime with Jorge but really, now is the most appealing time for this conversation? Great so it's 3 am, we're all awake now (but not in the lets be productive and see the city type of way) and nothing is on except for Spanish psychics and Bob Esponja (Spongebob Squarepants). But you can only watch cartoons in another language for so long before it begins to get a little ridiculous. Well 1 bag of banana chips, peanut m&ms and a bag of check mix later and Sue comes up with the brilliant idea of chamomile tea and a side of Valium. See ya later.

Well Siri set my alarm for 8, but we rolled out of bed around 11:45. How embarrassing. Whatever, Barcelona gives NYC a run for its money. This city NEVER sleeps...well if you don't count their famous siesta hours. As we make our way out into the daylight we decided our first stop will be La Sagrada Familia, as the cab drops us off we see the line winding around the building. Yeah right, we all know how much patience I have for lines. We'll come back after lunch...I mean brunch. After brunch we make our way back to the church, phew the line has diminished significantly. We buy our tickets and retrieve our nifty headsets. But for serio, I love those touristy headsets, it's a wonderful way to explore the grounds without having to prance around in an obnoxious group.

The church's exterior is breathtaking, construction of the church began in 1882, by Gaudí and is still under construction today, in fact it is said to be "finished" in 2026. Good one Spain. The stylistic architecture, Spanish Late Gothic and Catalon Modernism, is still mirrored after Gaudí's original style. As you enter through the giant columns you enter what feels like a canopy of marbled trees with sparkling stained light illuminating the church. Gaudí wanted the space to feel as if you were in a forest with natural light peeking in through the little sky lights and beautiful stained glass mosaics. The sight is entrancing. When you enter a room it is unusual to see people stopped in awe starring at the ceiling then you look up and you too become intoxicated by the sights and sounds of this historic cathedral. After our sweet headphone's tour we rush over to the tower, we are crammed into the lift with the most beautiful elevator attendant you have ever seen (I think I have a new type) and are scuttled up to the heavens. As we reluctantly exit the elevator we are thrust out a top of the world. The view is spectacular we can see from the ocean to the mountains and everything in between.

After the church we continue our Gaudí tour and head to Park Güell. A work of art sitting a top of the city of Barcelona. The park is decorated with Gaudíesque mosaics and lively street music. Although it appears to be only a tourist stop it is also a local hang out. Guapo Spanish men jog around the park and senoras congregate along the benches to chat. It's a picturesque scene but alas the park closes at 6. After we leave to the park we head down to the famous La Rambla for a little walking, people watching and an early dinner. It feels good to be back in Europe. Buenos noches Barca.

To Never, Never Land

The time had finally come. We bid adieu to my mother and made our way to the airport. She shall return to the states and Shelb and I shall venture out to Laos. Through our travels we have met many that claimed Laos is a must (a Full Moon Party everyday), and if their word isn't enough my Ojisan (grandpa in Japanese) says it is gorgeous and that there is nothing like it (our trip plans were a little different from the sight seeing trip my grandparents participated in...or at least I presume).


Barely able to contain our excitement we scamper out of the plane and enter the visa line. We strike up a conversation with a couple of British girls and eagerly talk about what we "think" we are getting ourselves into. Our facts are sparse and limited, we know that we have just entered a scene from Avatar and that we will be spending the next couple of days floating down a "lazy river" in what sounds like an adult raging waters...we don't have much past those details but do you really need more? As we made our way to the bus stop we are intercepted by an Aussie. He asks if we want to split a cab to Vang Vieng...lets see a 5 hour bus ride with no AC or a 2.5 hour cab ride with AC...we opt for the cab and invite our British friends to join us. After about 10 minutes in the van we realize we've yet to introduce ourselves...our Aussie friend is Nathan, he is from Sydney and the two girls, Carlota and Frankie, are from London. We chat for awhile getting to know each other then all slowly drift into our own musings.

We arrive in Vang Vieng around noon and set out to find lodging, we had all read up on travel blogs and decided to seek out the Traveler's Lodge. To our dismay, it was full! No worries, we headed next door and were all able to get a room ($21 for 3 days...a private room, AC, a tv and wifi...gotta love Asia).  After settling in Shelb and I threw on our suits and set out for a spot to grab lunch. We found a cozy little restaurant with beds and a constant stream of Friends (every restaurant played Friends or Family Guy) for the rest of the time in Vang Vieng we referred to it as Friends. You would be surprised how long you can sit in a restaurant and watch episodes of Friends, the classic humor translates to every language. Shelb and I were five episodes deep when we finally realized we needed to get out of there and get to the river!

We rolled out of bed and casually tuk tuked to the river.

The only way to properly describe the sites and sounds that filled out senses: beautiful mayhem. The river is lined with lean to, waterfront, bars. In order to get from one bar to another you must grab a tube and float down the river. After jumping in the tube the fast current drifts you in the direction of the next bar, you must then relay on the locals to throw out a buoy and guide you towards the bar. Everyone begins to migrate down river between noon and 2 pm, around 4:30 you grab a tube and float to bar 2, and then everyone casually drifts down to bar 3 (most of the time people end at bar 3). Upon entering each bar you are greeted by a nice British bloke (usually a guy on his gap year that visited Asia and just couldn't leave the bar...) who gives you a bracelet and whatever free treat the bar deems acceptable for its patrons. Bar 1 is generally a shot (actually...its every bar), bar 2 is spray paint, bar 3 is a jump off their high dive, bar 4 is chili fries, bar 5 is a rope swing...and the others evade me at the moment.

Day 1 (rookie mistakes): Shelb and I made the trek to the river by ourselves. Our new friends decided to take the day off and rest after our day of traveling. A bit of advice to future travelers...less is more in Laos. No shoes, no shirt, and you are in service. On the river all you need is a swim suit, shades, a waterproof satchel (conveniently sold at all stores in Laos, also you can pick up your Van Vieng merchandise like epic bro tanks, 80's style work out shorts and waterproof cameras) and $$$. Also, renting a tube is not vital (if you are a girl...). Because Shelb and I had foolishly gone to the river fully clothed AND with a bag we weren't able to tube...lame. No matter...you are also able to do the hop by foot.

Day 2: The second day we met up with our friends around noon, got some lunch and headed down to the river. We had met a couple friends at the bars the day before and of course our British friends had friends traveling for the summer (Asia to the rest of the world is like Vegas for us...you always know someone there?). We grabbed a bucket, conjoined groups and sat on the docks enjoying the scenery, good company and pulsing bass. Each bar has a bucket bar, a DJ, games and the best part...everyone is in their 20s. But, first things first, Bar 1 is the perfect place to meet people, lots of foreign bros to compete with in volleyball, pong or jenga, a few rounds later and everyone is looking pretty chummy. Now you have your tube to float to the next bar! On the river we met the most interesting people kids on gap year, kids traveling, business men...the works. And the best part about the company, everyone is friendly, there for a good time and most importantly...we're one of the few Americans. Ha...Europe is FLOODED with American tourists so you're literally just another obnoxious tourist. In Asia, everyone is European, therefor if you are an American you are awesome, even more so if you are from California. Its like telling a person from the Midwest you are from Southern California...their faces light up like a kid on Christmas Day (#SorryImFromCali).

As the sun was going down, so was the party. We hopped in "our" tubes and floated down the river towards town. The day before we had tuk tuked home but were informed we could just float the 3-4 kilometers back to the town! We got out of the river and and promised to meet up with our friends after our siesta. A couple hours later we woke, went to Friends, and headed out for a night on the town. We met up with Carlota and Frankie and made our way to Bucket Bar. This trendy place is located on the water with and is comprised of flimsy bamboo frames and palm frawn roofs. The DJ booth overlooks the dance floor in a Gilligan's Island style tree house. The atmosphere is mellow when we first entered and continues on that way until the locals bring out the fire limbo. As always, it is highly unsafe but completely entertaining.

Day 3 (essentially the same timeline as day 2): Alas, it is our final day in Laos and we had to make the most of it (we decided to buy a waterproof camera to keep track of our memories...). Shelb and I had to fly out at 9 the next morning so we made our way to the bus stop to check the times...hmmm these aren't really compatible with our tubing schedule...guess we'll have to take another cab. How about you pick us up at....2:30 am? It seemed easier to stay the night in Vang Vieng then try to find a hotel near the airport...also, we would get to play a little longer. After arranging our travels we made our way to the river. And obviously, we didn't rent tubes...so much easier not to! We had another brilliant day on the river, met some more friends (I got proposed to again by a couple British men...its amazing what people will do for a green card?), danced our hearts out to fresh techno beats and of course (the most loathsome noise in the world) Call Me Maybe, ate some more chili fries, and fully embraced the glory of our youth. It was simply perfection. And then the sun began to set...then there was a minor miscommunication (mostly on my part)...and instead of taking a tuk tuk home we might have swam...the 4 km back to town! Completely idiotic idea...lets just say, I have never been more happy about my decision to join the VHS swim team.

Welcome to Bangkok, Home of the Hangover.

It is quite the cultural shock entering the hustle and bustle of urban life after spending a week in the serene mountains and relaxing beach environment. We settle into our room, send Vic off, then decide to check out a night market...there's a bagillion to choose from in the city. First we head to The Peninsula to grab a drink and a water taxi ( I am growing fonder of this city the darker it gets). Bangkok is like the Asian Venice (just a bit dirtier) it is built along the river and has canals jutting out across the city. We find our stop and head for the market...we find a couple of cool things but mostly it is the same junk and we decide to grab a tuk tuk and head home (we find out the next day we ended up in the Red Light District...ok, Asia in general is kinda dirty...but if it looks SUPER sketch chances are it IS super sketch).

 Well one day in the city was enough for us. We ordered a cab to pick us up at 7:30 am and we head out to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Markets (the original floating market), as of recent the market has received more Weston publicity and has become more commercialized and touristy but we had to do it. It really was quite the spectacle, motor and paddle boats cruise the canals like bumper cars bouncing off vessels and walls. Its like a puzzle trying to navigate through. If you see something of interest you just motion to the driver to take you to the stall, however some ambitious vendors will hook you and pull you in. Other vendors have set up shops in little paddle boats and ride along side you coaxing a sale. The sights, colors, sounds and smells are intoxicating as you drift along the canal, instantly infatuated with the imagery, and just like that you are in a neighborhood and your tour is over.

We meet up with our driver and decide to head to the Kanchaburi Bridge over the River Kwai to see the Burma Railway or the Death Railways. Faintly remembering the name from my 10th grade US history class, I'm so glad we made the trek out there. It was a lovely memorial created and sustained by the Thai people. This railway was a Japanese project during WWII  it was built by American POWs and Asian prisoners and was created as a means of transportation for the Japanese between Bangkok and Burma. About 100,000 men died during the construction of this bridge.

After walking the bridge we decided to head to the Seven Tiered Waterfalls in the Erawan National Park to cool down. We had a 500 m walk then landed at the first fall. It was quite pretty, the water was a pale turquoise and the stream was dotted with little bamboo day beds for backpackers to lay out. Looks like we picked a good spot...then a monkey falls from a tree. It's my first monkey I'm pretty excited...Shelby turns pale." No, monkeys are evil!" She then launches into her monkey stories...and then I see a sign that reads, "Don't feed the monkeys! The monkeys are fierce, temperamental and dangerous." My elation soon transforms into terror...I would get attacked by crazed monkeys in a jungle 4 hours from Bangkok...too late to turn around? We've come this far might as well go for a swim, I take the first watch as my mom and Shelby take a dip. They swim toward the water and head towards the first fall, I reach for the camera and hear a familiar scream echoing through the gully. My mother is wailing at the base of the fall, well a monkey isn't attacking her, what's with the racket??

It's the fish!! They are biting her...a Thai trend is a fish pedicure. Here little fish nibble on your feet eating away at the dead skin. Gross...I know but Shelb and Vic swear by it. Except in this pool, the fish are full grown and it's no longer a nibble it's a full bite!! A group of Spaniards swim to the rescue shooing away the fish. I assume she is overreacting (per usual) and decide to go for a swim, if you keep moving they won't bite you (you must also stay clear of the sides...). We make it to the base of the fall unscathed then there it is my first bite. I yelp and scamper out of the waters...not so bad? Upon further inspection I realize I've really been bit...I have a bite mark on my foot! We throw our clothes on and head for the exit, not wanting to chance a monkey bite. We make it safely back into the car and drift into a deep sleep...we've been traveling for 12 hours...I'd say it's pretty well  deserved. And besides we've got a big day tomorrow...3 days in Laos tubing down Vang Vieng...should be wild.

She's A Mess of Gorgeous Chaos

Last time I left you I was just coming to after attending a Full Moon Party on Koh Phangan. I now find myself on another island just a short ferry away, this beautiful utopia is called Koh Samui. Koh Samui is a small island located off the coast of Thailand in a grand archipelago consisting of 100 islands. Each isle consists of a tropical jungle which melts into rocky cliffs and sandy beaches. The views are unreal.

Out hotel is nestled into the steep cliffs on the south west side of the island. The hotel has ingeniously tiered the villas so that everyone is granted the glorious unhindered view of the other islands. Gazing off into the sea little peaks collect along the horizon as if mountain range were in the distance. It's quite a sight when the fog begins to roll in along the water (a good indication the afternoon storm is upon us) slowly engulfing the islands in a cloud of darkness. The clouds are so dense you lose sight of the islands...it's like a white out on the slopes...but better because there is thunder and lightening.

Because the islands are in such close proximity (and the baht is so darn cheap) it's fun to take day trips to the other islands. Our first trip was a snorkeling day excursion, we hopped on the boats and headed for Koh Tao, we were informed the journey was about an hour and a half...not bad with a good book and some tunes? Syke. What appeared to be a relaxing ride turned into the perfect storm. On the open sea, a little ocean spray is a refreshing surprise and much welcomed. As we got further out to sea the waves gradually became larger and the spray turned into buckets. Welcome to South East Asia. A crew member thrust life jackets in our direction, are we going down? From the opposite deck we see him pantomiming...use the jackets as a roof? Oh...a water shield...what was an entirely miserable experience transformed as we regained body heat under our water shields.

Just as we got comfortable the engine purr ceased and we found ourselves anchored. We quickly shed our waterlogged clothing, gathered our snorkel gear and dove off the boat. Only rookies listen to the safety talks...but really (we know how to swim and if there's a shark don't pet it). Even though it is monsoon season we still had killer visibility; the reefs seemed endless, illuminated by the rich blues of the ocean and multitudes of colorful fish (reminder: I need to come back for a dive trip during the appropriate season...any volunteers?). After about an hour we headed back to the boat where we are shuttled off to a little village for some lunch. (FYI homemade Thai food is phenomenal). After lunch we head for another island just a rock skip away, Koh Nanhyuan. We anchor in a little cove and set out towards the beach. This area is known as the three islands because they are all connected by little foot bridges. The islands are surrounded by a ring of coral reefs and fine white sandy beaches it was an ideal stop. We hiked to the highest point of the island and were rewarded with an impressive 360 view. After our Asian picture spree we retreated to the beach for a refreshing dip before we had to return to the boat.

After our boating trip we were still pretty exhausted the next day (no judgements...we're on vaca). We decided to spend a relaxing day at the hotel, the morning began with yoga on the pier. After yoga my mom and I met Shelb and Vic for breakfast (Steve had flown home at 7 am) and after breakfast we headed down to the pool. After a lazy day of lounging around we decided to take a Muay Thai (Thai boxing) class, my brother had instructed us it is a must...can't argue with baby.

Let me paint you a picture of our class: class was held on a waterfront pier, it's about 90 degrees and humid, Shelb,Vic a random Asian man and I make up the student body, and the Thai version of Jackie Chan (also my yoga instructor) is our teacher...I wont say we were the most talented and I definitely wouldn't say we were the hardest working...but we looked damn good doing it? Or silly enough that the entire pool staff kept coming by to gawk at us...ya, pretty impressive. Although, our class was cut short because of the storm I'd say we got a lot out of the class. We learned the basics and even got to spar. If we can't make it to a fight...might as well have our own!

The next day we decided to go for another boating trip. We hired a long tail boat for three hours and set sail for the five islands. Our first stop we jumped in for a snorkel in a remote cove, due to the storm the night before our visibility wasn't the greatest but the scenery is far too beautiful to ever complain. As we jumped back in the boat we are instantly dried by the sun. We then set sail for another close island and decide to try our hand at a little fishing (in my 23 years of existence I have never caught a fish...I hate fishing). We anchored near an old pier and dropped a couple lines in about 5 minutes later Vic and my mom already have bites. Just when I begin to pout I realize where I am...I am on a long tailed boat in the middle of the Thai islands with an exquisite backdrop and phenomenal company...I couldn't ask for more. And just as I'm getting my zen back on, I feel a tug. Obviously I scream then begin to reel in my line. I had just caught my first fish (it was the size of my hand but who cares)!! After a day of snorkeling and fishing we decide to take the boat around the islands for some sight seeing before we head back to Koh Samui.

On our last full day on the island we decide to head into the city for some shopping and sightseeing. We got into town and went straight for the beach (typical) now what kind of mischief can we get into here...sketch food vendors, beach bars and water sports...we beeline for the sea do rentals but our eye is caught by the speed boat dragging a banana. Sold. I don't care how old you are...that is always a good time. We throw our stuff down, grab life jackets and "gracefully" mount the banana. We have 20 minutes on this bad boy...the driver starts off easy clearly underestimating our abilities. We decide to play with him and ride without hands...bad idea. From there it was game on...the rest of the time was spent doing donuts and jumping wakes, talk about whip lash. On the last donut we manage to stay on which provokes him to cattail...we are THROWN face first in a dog pile off the banana. He then waves and drives away. Cheers.

After a little shopping we head back to the hotel for a cooking class. When I travel I like to take a cooking class and learn some traditional meals to attempt to make for my family and friends when I am home (also Steven had requested we take the class). We were the only people that had signed up for the day so it was a private class. We spent the next two hours cooking, it was great getting back in the kitchen. We learned how to make Laab Chicken, Chicken Phad Thai and a Seafood Curry. After each dish we would sit at the table to taste test our creations...we were soon joined by scavengers as Shelb and Vic got hungry. A great way to end our relaxing stay in the islands. Next stop Bangkok...