Thursday, July 12, 2012

Welcome to Bangkok, Home of the Hangover.

It is quite the cultural shock entering the hustle and bustle of urban life after spending a week in the serene mountains and relaxing beach environment. We settle into our room, send Vic off, then decide to check out a night market...there's a bagillion to choose from in the city. First we head to The Peninsula to grab a drink and a water taxi ( I am growing fonder of this city the darker it gets). Bangkok is like the Asian Venice (just a bit dirtier) it is built along the river and has canals jutting out across the city. We find our stop and head for the market...we find a couple of cool things but mostly it is the same junk and we decide to grab a tuk tuk and head home (we find out the next day we ended up in the Red Light District...ok, Asia in general is kinda dirty...but if it looks SUPER sketch chances are it IS super sketch).

 Well one day in the city was enough for us. We ordered a cab to pick us up at 7:30 am and we head out to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Markets (the original floating market), as of recent the market has received more Weston publicity and has become more commercialized and touristy but we had to do it. It really was quite the spectacle, motor and paddle boats cruise the canals like bumper cars bouncing off vessels and walls. Its like a puzzle trying to navigate through. If you see something of interest you just motion to the driver to take you to the stall, however some ambitious vendors will hook you and pull you in. Other vendors have set up shops in little paddle boats and ride along side you coaxing a sale. The sights, colors, sounds and smells are intoxicating as you drift along the canal, instantly infatuated with the imagery, and just like that you are in a neighborhood and your tour is over.

We meet up with our driver and decide to head to the Kanchaburi Bridge over the River Kwai to see the Burma Railway or the Death Railways. Faintly remembering the name from my 10th grade US history class, I'm so glad we made the trek out there. It was a lovely memorial created and sustained by the Thai people. This railway was a Japanese project during WWII  it was built by American POWs and Asian prisoners and was created as a means of transportation for the Japanese between Bangkok and Burma. About 100,000 men died during the construction of this bridge.

After walking the bridge we decided to head to the Seven Tiered Waterfalls in the Erawan National Park to cool down. We had a 500 m walk then landed at the first fall. It was quite pretty, the water was a pale turquoise and the stream was dotted with little bamboo day beds for backpackers to lay out. Looks like we picked a good spot...then a monkey falls from a tree. It's my first monkey I'm pretty excited...Shelby turns pale." No, monkeys are evil!" She then launches into her monkey stories...and then I see a sign that reads, "Don't feed the monkeys! The monkeys are fierce, temperamental and dangerous." My elation soon transforms into terror...I would get attacked by crazed monkeys in a jungle 4 hours from Bangkok...too late to turn around? We've come this far might as well go for a swim, I take the first watch as my mom and Shelby take a dip. They swim toward the water and head towards the first fall, I reach for the camera and hear a familiar scream echoing through the gully. My mother is wailing at the base of the fall, well a monkey isn't attacking her, what's with the racket??

It's the fish!! They are biting her...a Thai trend is a fish pedicure. Here little fish nibble on your feet eating away at the dead skin. Gross...I know but Shelb and Vic swear by it. Except in this pool, the fish are full grown and it's no longer a nibble it's a full bite!! A group of Spaniards swim to the rescue shooing away the fish. I assume she is overreacting (per usual) and decide to go for a swim, if you keep moving they won't bite you (you must also stay clear of the sides...). We make it to the base of the fall unscathed then there it is my first bite. I yelp and scamper out of the waters...not so bad? Upon further inspection I realize I've really been bit...I have a bite mark on my foot! We throw our clothes on and head for the exit, not wanting to chance a monkey bite. We make it safely back into the car and drift into a deep sleep...we've been traveling for 12 hours...I'd say it's pretty well  deserved. And besides we've got a big day tomorrow...3 days in Laos tubing down Vang Vieng...should be wild.

Tuesday, July 10, 2012

She's A Mess of Gorgeous Chaos

Last time I left you I was just coming to after attending a Full Moon Party on Koh Phangan. I now find myself on another island just a short ferry away, this beautiful utopia is called Koh Samui. Koh Samui is a small island located off the coast of Thailand in a grand archipelago consisting of 100 islands. Each isle consists of a tropical jungle which melts into rocky cliffs and sandy beaches. The views are unreal.

Out hotel is nestled into the steep cliffs on the south west side of the island. The hotel has ingeniously tiered the villas so that everyone is granted the glorious unhindered view of the other islands. Gazing off into the sea little peaks collect along the horizon as if mountain range were in the distance. It's quite a sight when the fog begins to roll in along the water (a good indication the afternoon storm is upon us) slowly engulfing the islands in a cloud of darkness. The clouds are so dense you lose sight of the islands...it's like a white out on the slopes...but better because there is thunder and lightening.

Because the islands are in such close proximity (and the baht is so darn cheap) it's fun to take day trips to the other islands. Our first trip was a snorkeling day excursion, we hopped on the boats and headed for Koh Tao, we were informed the journey was about an hour and a half...not bad with a good book and some tunes? Syke. What appeared to be a relaxing ride turned into the perfect storm. On the open sea, a little ocean spray is a refreshing surprise and much welcomed. As we got further out to sea the waves gradually became larger and the spray turned into buckets. Welcome to South East Asia. A crew member thrust life jackets in our direction, are we going down? From the opposite deck we see him pantomiming...use the jackets as a roof? Oh...a water shield...what was an entirely miserable experience transformed as we regained body heat under our water shields.

Just as we got comfortable the engine purr ceased and we found ourselves anchored. We quickly shed our waterlogged clothing, gathered our snorkel gear and dove off the boat. Only rookies listen to the safety talks...but really (we know how to swim and if there's a shark don't pet it). Even though it is monsoon season we still had killer visibility; the reefs seemed endless, illuminated by the rich blues of the ocean and multitudes of colorful fish (reminder: I need to come back for a dive trip during the appropriate season...any volunteers?). After about an hour we headed back to the boat where we are shuttled off to a little village for some lunch. (FYI homemade Thai food is phenomenal). After lunch we head for another island just a rock skip away, Koh Nanhyuan. We anchor in a little cove and set out towards the beach. This area is known as the three islands because they are all connected by little foot bridges. The islands are surrounded by a ring of coral reefs and fine white sandy beaches it was an ideal stop. We hiked to the highest point of the island and were rewarded with an impressive 360 view. After our Asian picture spree we retreated to the beach for a refreshing dip before we had to return to the boat.

After our boating trip we were still pretty exhausted the next day (no judgements...we're on vaca). We decided to spend a relaxing day at the hotel, the morning began with yoga on the pier. After yoga my mom and I met Shelb and Vic for breakfast (Steve had flown home at 7 am) and after breakfast we headed down to the pool. After a lazy day of lounging around we decided to take a Muay Thai (Thai boxing) class, my brother had instructed us it is a must...can't argue with baby.

Let me paint you a picture of our class: class was held on a waterfront pier, it's about 90 degrees and humid, Shelb,Vic a random Asian man and I make up the student body, and the Thai version of Jackie Chan (also my yoga instructor) is our teacher...I wont say we were the most talented and I definitely wouldn't say we were the hardest working...but we looked damn good doing it? Or silly enough that the entire pool staff kept coming by to gawk at us...ya, pretty impressive. Although, our class was cut short because of the storm I'd say we got a lot out of the class. We learned the basics and even got to spar. If we can't make it to a fight...might as well have our own!

The next day we decided to go for another boating trip. We hired a long tail boat for three hours and set sail for the five islands. Our first stop we jumped in for a snorkel in a remote cove, due to the storm the night before our visibility wasn't the greatest but the scenery is far too beautiful to ever complain. As we jumped back in the boat we are instantly dried by the sun. We then set sail for another close island and decide to try our hand at a little fishing (in my 23 years of existence I have never caught a fish...I hate fishing). We anchored near an old pier and dropped a couple lines in about 5 minutes later Vic and my mom already have bites. Just when I begin to pout I realize where I am...I am on a long tailed boat in the middle of the Thai islands with an exquisite backdrop and phenomenal company...I couldn't ask for more. And just as I'm getting my zen back on, I feel a tug. Obviously I scream then begin to reel in my line. I had just caught my first fish (it was the size of my hand but who cares)!! After a day of snorkeling and fishing we decide to take the boat around the islands for some sight seeing before we head back to Koh Samui.

On our last full day on the island we decide to head into the city for some shopping and sightseeing. We got into town and went straight for the beach (typical) now what kind of mischief can we get into here...sketch food vendors, beach bars and water sports...we beeline for the sea do rentals but our eye is caught by the speed boat dragging a banana. Sold. I don't care how old you are...that is always a good time. We throw our stuff down, grab life jackets and "gracefully" mount the banana. We have 20 minutes on this bad boy...the driver starts off easy clearly underestimating our abilities. We decide to play with him and ride without hands...bad idea. From there it was game on...the rest of the time was spent doing donuts and jumping wakes, talk about whip lash. On the last donut we manage to stay on which provokes him to cattail...we are THROWN face first in a dog pile off the banana. He then waves and drives away. Cheers.

After a little shopping we head back to the hotel for a cooking class. When I travel I like to take a cooking class and learn some traditional meals to attempt to make for my family and friends when I am home (also Steven had requested we take the class). We were the only people that had signed up for the day so it was a private class. We spent the next two hours cooking, it was great getting back in the kitchen. We learned how to make Laab Chicken, Chicken Phad Thai and a Seafood Curry. After each dish we would sit at the table to taste test our creations...we were soon joined by scavengers as Shelb and Vic got hungry. A great way to end our relaxing stay in the islands. Next stop Bangkok...

Thursday, July 5, 2012

The Full Moon Party

I can feel the light before I can see it. I open my eyes to see that I am swimming in a pool of dried paint and sand. I smile as images of the last 24 hours drift through my head. Surreal. I slowly sit up and reach for my camera, I need hard evidence last night was real. Paint party, Thai buckets, fire and lady boys. Yep, we had survived the legendary Full Moon Party in Koh Phangan and it was the best night of my life. Sorry, I digress my real story begins a mere 24 hours earlier ...on July 3.

We collect our luggage from the baggage carousal and head to the ticketing counter. Praying there are still ferry tickets available...10,000 people attending and we don't have tickets to the island...talk about anxiety. But we are in luck, heaps available. We purchase our tickets and are immediately corralled into buses where we are shuttled off to the harbor. We hop on the bus and meet two guys from Florida, ew one has a faux hawk and they both have eyebrow slits...tools. We get to talking and their silly appearances are from their last trip, they were in Vietnam and were playing a game called Claim. If you didn't complete the dare you had to shave a design into your body. Hence the eyebrow slits another souvenir, tiger stripes down the leg. We exchange our travel stories as the excitement courses through our veins (looks like we'll have to extend the trip, Laos and Vietnam?). We exit the bus and head towards our speedboat.

We get to the island and head for the hotel. We've got a long night ahead of us... On our way to the hotel we run into a friend of my sisters (Brendan) who demands we attend a paint party at his hotel tonight then all head down to the beach. Sounds appropriate...we're in! We throw our things in the room and head for the pool. We grab a Thai bucket and a pizza and post up by the pool. A DJ is set up by the pool and we've got some lively Aussies to entertain ourselves before the night begins.

We rendezvous with Brendan and head for the party...time to get our Picasso on. A couple hours later Brendan drags us out of the bar...it's midnight already? Jeez. Off we go...months of planning and our big night has finally arrived!

We get onto the main road and jump into the throng of people (picture a MASS exodus). We link up and swim through crowd each screaming to one another, " don't leave me I don't have a phone!?" Then we hit sand, we've made it! And it is quite a sight pure mayhem, but it is beautiful. The beach is lined with bars, stages, painting booths, flaming objects and 10,000 people.

We jump from stage to stage all night (literally). Just when you think you need a break you hear a familiar song and run to the next stage completely energized. Why stop? This is one of the top 10 parties in the world...you need to savor every minute (But if you need a break, you nap in the sand). It couldn't have been more ideal.

As the night continued the mischief progressed. More and more fire toys began to appear, first signs, then hula hoops and finally the infamous jump rope. Now all travel blogs warn you not to jump in the rope "even if you are an expert jumper the drunk that joins you is not." Not into fire? Try the giant waterside it is probably almost as unsafe but completely worth it.

And don't bother asking people for the time, from midnight-when the sun comes up everyone told me it was 1:30...

Just when we were about to call it a night we spot more friends. And just like that all exhaustion banished. We head down to our favorite stage just as a Red Hot Chili Peppers mash-up begins and just like that the party starts again. We make our way to the stage to escape from the crowds (only so many people can fit up there). I start my two step and notice the girl next to me is wearing tights...well that's odd. My peripheral peek turns into a stare as I realize a congregation of lady boys (transvestites...sort of) has assembled next to me. Soooo...sick? This is my first encounter with a lady boy and hopefully my last...thank goodness I'm a girl...would have been a different story if Baby Steve was here! Again I digress...back to the party.

It was some odd hour of the morning but the party was still going. No one knew what time it was and no one really cared (the more time I spend in South East Asia the more I don't worry about things like time what's important is the present and living in the moment. Time stands still so you can enjoy the moment and that's exactly what I plan to do). The music suddenly changes pace and a small Asian man begins to MC what appears to be another morning rally cry is actually the end of the party. Times...how can it be over! We just got here...and then it hit us. The sun has come out...not just risen...it is out. What now? We fall into line and head towards the town. Just as we are crossing the pool we see the hotel staff setting up breakfast (it's 7:30)...after 8 hours of dancing nothing has ever looked this good. We scarf down our food and groggily head off to bed.

Three hours later we wake up to a pounding on the door...it's Brendan...he has managed to lose his shirt, shoes, hat and friends...but what a night.

Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Oh my God, oh my Buddah

As we settle into our seats we hear the stewardess over the intercom. What we thought to be a typical "welcome" spiel turned into a warning.  "Please excuse the delay, there is a typhoon warning in Hong Kong."  Immediately a sinking feeling in my stomach begins to take hold of me. And then the voice comes across the intercom, "flight attendants prepare for take off". Wait...time out. I quickly grab an attendant...I'm sorry maybe I misunderstood I thought you just said we had a typhoon warning? Oh we fine, there always  typhoon in Hong Kong. Oh well as long as its a normal occurrence? After 20+hours of flying I find myself in beautiful Thighland (for those of you who are not literate in obnoxious cinematic quotes I am in Thailand). LAX> Hong Kong> Bangkok (pick up Shelby and Victoria) > Chiang Mai. Upon arriving we quickly retrieve  our bags and scuttled out of the airport.

Thankfully our hotel had an airport transportation shuttle, God bless FSR. Trying to function after that travel day would have been impossible.  Entering our hotel is like entering Buddha's secret garden. The FSR never fails, authentic Thai buildings surrounding a rice field. As we enter the open air lobby we are all awe struck by the beautiful architecture and landscape. We quickly settle into our bungalows and head into town. We have three nights in Chiang Mai and we cannot waste a second. We hop in a shuttle and head straight to the Tiger Kingdom. Due to all the animal rights groups and general US safety laws this tiger experience would not have been made possible back home...cheers to third world countries? Our tiger trek began with cuddling baby tigers (basically the cutest beings you will ever encounter) it ended with jumping in a grown up tiger cage. This encounter was exhilarating and terrifying, we were the LAST group to enter before dinner time.Things I have learned from the Tiger Kingdom obviously tigers hate cinnamon (more Hangover quotes) but they also dislike camera flashes (...upon switching my camera settings my flash turned on my life flashed before my eyes...) a tiger  encounter whether wild or captive  is never a comfortable experience especially  surrounded by little Asian men telling you to cuddle with the tiger. We each lined up to take our pictures then attempted to hustle out of the pen, but no the little Asian men claimed we had not had our "full tiger experience" and we are then wrangled to the pool area where we proceeded to watch the hungry tigers "play." I don't think we could have run out of that cage faster. Although a phenomenal experience (to look back on) I would advice to not visit right before dinner time... 


 The next day was spent in search of temples and waterfall hikes. The temple was nestled in the jungle at the highest point in Thailand. The images were exquisite, the Buddhists know how to decorate a temple. You enter the jungle temple by way of a golden dragon stairwell, the grounds are filled with shrine upon shrine of golden statues and colorful friezes; the entire temple is littered with beautiful flowers and glowing candles it's quite a sight. Our driver then took us to a Thai restaurant a top a waterfall...ya it was awesome. We spent the rest of the day lounging lakeside and the night jumping around Chiang Mai. 


The best part of traveling is meeting new people, everyone is 1) interesting 2) you get to exchange your travel stories and 3) we talk about the anticipation of the mayhem that is the full moon party...because everyone is going.  The next morning Vic and I wake and groggily head to our morning yoga class. The only reason this class was even remotely on our morning radar was because the class was held on a dock waterside. After an exhilarating class we ran back to our room...we were already running late for our excursion. Today's adventure consisted of elephant rides and bamboo drifts...yes it was as spectacular as you are currently imagining. We entered the elephant grounds by way of a rickety old bridge with a sign that read, "warning do not exceed over 10 minutes on the bridge."  

Yet another captivating casual Asian warning...the day began by feeding the elephants. Having the elephants snatch bananas from your hand with their trunks never gets old (I could have done this all day). Next on the agenda was a show, we watched the elephants do little tricks for a bit but the most exciting part was watching a baby elephant paint a picture. They are such magnificent creatures it was quite the spectacle.  After the show we hopped on the elephants for a jungle ride to a village then onto a homemade Thai lunch. After lunch we were shuttled down the river on bamboo rafts. Sooo tribal. We spent the rest of the evening poolside then retired early...tomorrow was a big day, off to Koh Phangan for the Full Moon Party.